Industrial Cannabis sativa (Fiber or Hemp): Hemp Cottonization-Advantages and Current Challenges

Industrial Cannabis sativa (hemp or fiber type) has many applications particularly to produce paper, ropes, food, medicines, cosmetics, hempcrete, leather, bioplastic, biochar, 3D printing and textiles. Hemp fibers are used to create durable and eco-friendly fabrics for clothing, upholstery, and accessories. Hemp clothing is valued for its durability, breathability, and biodegradability, making it a preferred choice for conscious consumers. Hemp has been the mostly blended with cotton and synthetic fibers due to barriers in the industrial process of the production of full hemp-based textiles. India is the second-largest textile producer in the world. Digital, 3D Printing and 3D textile printing are emerging as game-changers in the Indian textile industry. Textile designers in India are already using 3D printing to create intricate patterns and textures on fabric, offering consumers a unique, personalized experience. One such major challenge is non-compatibility of hemp with modern textile machinery. The best way to process hemp is ‘cottonization’ of hemp. Cottonization is defined as the process of converting the hard bark of a hemp plant into a cotton like structure so that it can be used on dry spinning systems. Methods of hemp fiber extraction include dew retting, water retting, osmotic degumming, enzymatic retting, steam explosion and mechanical decortication to decompose pectin, lignin and hemicellulose to remove them from the stem with varying efficiency. However, there are several challenges associated with hemp processing as the fiber is coarse, stiff and it has comparatively poor spinnability particularly when 100% hemp is processed in ring spinning system. India has the potential to lead the global hemp revolution, there are challenges to overcome. The Indian hemp clothing market faces challenges related to regulatory issues, public perception, and sourcing of hemp fibers. However, as more research highlights the environmental and economic benefits of hemp, the stigma is gradually fading. The lack of production of specialized industrial machines dedicated to hemp fibers results in the high diversity of technological lines used and makes it impossible to evaluate the universal economic aspects of hemp yarn manufacturing.